Timdar Travel Blog

Apropos nothing at all, just seen only our third cat in the whole time we’ve been in Mexico.

Anyway, that is chilling metaphorically, as literally it really did hit 30 degrees. Everyone we’d met in Mexico said how much they enjoyed Oaxaca, and we began to see why. Usual plan was to broadly follow the walking route but more slowly, and with more frequent coffee/beer/lunch stops.

This one isn’t the cathedral but those “humble” Dominicans, as in Puebla. Solid gold again – none of that cheap gold leaf.

Colourful view of the main square – so much activity. Apparently there is usually a strike of some sort, and/or a protest, which attracts hundreds of street vendors as well.

It looks hot because it was.

Eventually retired to a rooftop bar.

And finally enjoyed the street art. “I know God never dies”

Forgot to mention yesterday the process of checking out of apartments. Apartments fall into two categories – those you can get back into, and those you can’t. Obviously with the latter we are super careful before we once and for all lock the apartment knowing we can’t get back in.

So we’re already in the Uber on the way to the bus station in Puebla when I realise I’ve left my small rucksack (containing passports, amongst other important stuff) in the apartment, and guess which category of apartment it fell in to. Yup – had to call the agent who was thankfully close by to let us in, so alls well that ends well. And the Uber driver’s tip (£4) was actually bigger than his fare!

Oh, and another thing – we’ve been staying in Mexico City, San Cristobal and Puebla, and they’re all at about 2,200 metres (7,000 feet in old money). Now we’re in Oaxaca we’re now in the heady depths of 1,600m (5,000ft). And no idea if it’s connected but we’re seeing much hotter weather – high 20s or might even hit 30 degrees.

Started the first day with the obligatory walking tour, with Abel as our guide.

As usual, great for getting our bearings, and will use that as our framework for our stay here. A few introductory pictures

Tierra del Sol

And then, complementary to Eileen’s super-planning, something unexpected and memorable happens.

Got a recommendation from Abel about restaurants and chose this one almost at random.

Started with a tortilla tasting session. Including a grasshopper salsa (with extra grasshopper salt). It was good, but you’d never guess.

Great views from the terrace. One of the issues here in Mexico is that because we’re so unfamiliar with the food terms, even if you order something you like, you’ll probably never find it again. Anyway, Eileen had quail!

Last move before we head home. Onwards to Oaxaca.

We have met so many wonderful people – Canadians escaping their winter and young Europeans being away for months. Without exception the latter group are all heading south, through Guatemala and Belize to South America.

They are obviously travelling on a budget, so 13 hour overnight coach trips are not uncommon. For us, a 5 hour day coach journey from Puebla to Oaxaca feels like a challenge.

Actually it was fine, although using a loo at 60mph presents its own challenges. But some of the scenery (again at over 2000m was fantastic.

And arrived in time to enjoy our first evening in Oaxaca. Everyone we’ve met loves it, so here’s hoping.

Getting towards the final week of our trip and beginning to relax a bit; much of the hard work is now done.

A walking tour as usual, although Eileen was a bit below par. So I had to go alone and then try to remember and repeat it the next day. Missed out a lot …

Anyway, San Domingo Church – not the cathedral

This is pure gold – around 4 tonnes apparently. That’s half a billion pounds if you’re interested.

Lovely town to chill in.

That’s San Cristóbal done. We’re finding the distances in Mexico to be huge, and we’re too old for 13 hour night bus journeys. So it’s a flight back to Mexico City and a taxi to Puebla.

Somewhere there in the clouds is Popocatapetl volcano.

Just in time for a brief acclimatisation. View from our terrace. Might even be the volcano in the background.

Then a brief foray into town.

It’s just a ride down a river through a gorge, but with amazing views.

Firstly we got taken to a viewing point

Yup – that’s where we’re going – 1,000 metres down there.

But before we get top the trip, a quick shout out to Elizabeth who was fantastic fun and mad as a box of frogs.

She immediately sat up front with the driver – I thought she was a guide but she wasn’t – and then played Mexican music from her phone through the speakers getting all on board (except 2!) to sing along. Then dug out a bottle of tequila and some shot glasses and handed those around the bus (everyone partaking in this one!). And she was very kind to us – everyone else spoke Spanish so she made sure we understood what was going on and where we were supposed to be.

On the boat – first stop is the floating bar to buy a beer.

Then we’re off – and it was a stunning couple of hours. Hang on to your hats!

Yes – they are crocodiles.

Oops …

We’re about halfway, and the schedule includes a rest day. We’re going to need a holiday when we’re done!!!

So taking it easy in San Christobal for a whole day. And it’s beautifully sunny and warm.

Although a quick update from New York where apparently it’s beautiful and cold.

Stumbled across more murals in the university

We had been introduced to a great cafe and coffee shop by Anna (La Espirituosa)

And a bit embarrassing – we were trying to find the Mayan Textile Museum. Google Maps was quite helpful, except that when we got in there it wasn’t the right one. Went off to lunch to do more research and found that we had been in the right museum, just on the wrong floor.

Anyway, well worth it.

(although this next one is a photograph in an exhibition)

Subtitle – a non-photogenic, but incredibly fascinating, tour.

These are two towns/communities about half an hour from San Cristobal (and another 1,000 feet higher, so we were above 8,000 feet for the day).

It’s part of the Mexican heritage, and particularly here in the Chiapas region. The guide claimed there were 68 languages still spoken in Mexico.

I said it wasn’t photogenic.

The tour tried to concentrate on the religious, cultural and political differences, and that these towns/communities are still, to an extent, semi-autonomous places.

So this is the prison cell – most sentences are for a matter of hours, leaving it then to the community to sort out the miscreant – including, the guide claimed, lynching for the most serious. We watched (but weren’t allowed to photograph) a mediation court.

No pictures allowed of religious activities; suffice to say there is a sort of link to Catholicism, although they do not really recognise the Vatican. The Vatican recognises them, but lets them get on with their own way of doing things.

That was Chamula – Zinacantan is not far away, but allowed more pictures. (And it’s big on flower production.)

Recognisably different costumes for each town, but again photographing people was very unwelcome).

And lots of weaving (and buying), and pictures are allowed.

That’s our guide getting very passionate about these communities and the threats they’re facing.

This has been an incredibly brief summary of our trip, which raised so many questions within the group, and doesn’t even scratch the surface of all the issues.

We did our usual of signing up for a walking tour on our first day, and had the enormous good fortune of Anna as our guide. She was amazing.

Passionately political about

Feminism and women’s rights

Native Mexican’s rights

Coca-Cola

Here she is in front of a mural of a coke bottle and the tag line says “steals water”.

There is a huge coke plant nearby becoming hugely influential in the area, and she claimed the average person drinks 2 litres a day. She said she used to drink 3 litres, and has been “dry” for 6 years – and still misses it more than her ex!

And to cap it all, she introduced us to a fantastic cafe and coffee shop.

Then it rained in the evening and we got wet!

The younger travellers take an overnight bus, or whatever, on their way to the Yucatan, Guatemala and the rest of Central America. We fly and taxi! And we arrive in plenty of time to sightsee and mooch around.

Obligatory margaritas