Tuesday – On the Move

Having almost ground to a halt, we stirred ourselves for a little bit of adventure – i.e. driving to Marrakech. No real idea what driving is like in Morocco, and no satnav so relying on maps.

And we made it ok. The roads seem to be extremely good – or at least this one was, and so 120 miles later, and with a couple of wrong turns, we found the hotel. So take a look at this – more like an art gallery.

Our room

And the foyer outside our room

And a real sense of achievement in the evening.  We had been expecting to take taxis into the old town, but the owner of the hotel (or is it a gallery??) encouraged us to drive. So we had a go. Found the Medina, immediately turned around and retraced our route so we could get home again, found somewhere to park close to the main square, negotiated a reduction in the parking fee from £4 to 2.50 (still way more than I should have paid), had an excellent meal in the square without overpaying, found our way back to the car, and found the hotel again.  And didn’t hit anyone or knock anyone off their bike (none of which have lights).

Proper exploring tomorrow.

Day 3

Nothing to report. Sun, sea, delicious food (although a scarcity of booze). Many of the smaller restaurants are dry, which doesn’t half make eating out cheap.

Quick fringe trim

And so on and so on …

3 hour drive to Marrakech tomorrow.

Day 2 – Exploring Essaouira

Not in any sense adventurous exploring – more of a gentle stroll, interspersed by coffee, beer and dinner.

Staying in a beautiful hotel – here is one of the lounges

Here’s the beach

The fishing port

The ramparts

And a beer

I said it was tough. More tomorrow.

Saturday 22nd – Essaouira

When you joke that after a trip like India you need a holiday to get over it, you don’t really mean it. But only 3 weeks after landing in Heathrow we’re off again – but this time more for R&R.

So where is Essaouira (pronounced Essa-Wirra)?

I’d never heard of it, but not a million miles away from the Canaries on the Moroccan coast.

Not a bad welcoming view from the room. And then as we walked to the Medina for dinner.

And even Ryanair behaved. Allocated middle seats in different rows, as they do, we managed to swap and ended with a row of 3 to ourselves. Felt like a victory!

Saturday 1st Feb – Incredible India

Which just about sums it up. Last morning in Jodhpur – didn’t move.

Had to pinch ourselves it is January.

Jodhpur Airport is just something else. Imagine a normal school assembly hall – that is the departure lounge. Something like 600 people with luggage all crammed in and then 2 flights leave at the same time. No departure info as the tv screens were showing cricket (obviously). So literally an impasse with absolutely no room to move.

Anyway, back to Delhi to the Colonel’s Retreat. We had thought about staying at the airport (and did again as we hit Delhi traffic), but it was good to be in the centre with one last fabulous Indian rooftop dinner.

Lovely walk in the park in central Delhi before a hitch-free 15 hour door-to-door trip home.

So that’s it. Santosh’ catchphrase was “Incredible India” – invariably about driving, motorway tolls, or general traffic-related things, but it sums up everything about a fantastic holiday. Certainly the most intense over such a long period – so much we’ve seen and experienced we need a holiday. So here are a few final memories.

Thursday 30th – Winding Down

We’re getting near to the end, and so beginning to reflect on all sorts of things. But first, losing one’s dignity ….

Yup. That will be drinking opium and wearing a turban. Not sure what purpose either served, but that’s sometimes what you do on holiday.

Had a visit to the local Bishnoi village. Not entirely sure about these trips, visiting local villages and craftspeople but it was ok. Mildly diverting, out of the noise of the city, and managed to get one or two small souvenirs and escape from the pressure selling.

R&R on the roof in the afternoon and met up with Robin and Gary from New Zealand. A really nice way to spend a couple of hours (did I say it got too hot in the sun?).

And into town for dinner for shopping

And to demonstrate our bargaining skills, we managed to negotiate him down from 1,000 rupees to .. err .. 1,000 rupees!

And found a coffee shop that knew what a flat white was and delivered excellent ones for £1.

Then off to dinner with John and Sue again. Views from dinner

And weddings and fireworks in town

Wednesday – Jodhpur

Just when we were both feeling a little jaded, up pops Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur.

As we’ve moved west, we’re into the desert, and Jodhpur has been a major market town and fortress for hundreds of years. According to the guide, this is the second largest desert in the world, after the Sahara, although we haven’t checked that.

Lots of pictures

Note it’s called the blue town. Higher caste and more important folks are allowed to pain their house blue.

Apparently when the Maharajah couldn’t be bothered to choose which wife or concubine to spend the night with, the ladies would play a version of Ludo to see who wins. See the board in the picture.

Then a quick whizz over to the Cenotaph

Bit of a rest on the terrace at the hotel

And then some shopping. Good job it wasn’t busy …

Tuesday – Jain Temples

But first of all the motorway service station knows how to attract customers.

Although not completely true!

Anyway, back to the main event was the visit to the Jain Temples, near our hotel. They don’t open to tourists until 12.00, so able to chill in the garden for a couple of hours. With musical accompaniment…

Temples – which aren’t easy to capture, but here goes. And there are 1,444 pillars, all different.

Then our last long road trip to Jodhpur.

Good hotel:

  • WiFi wasn’t great so they put another router in the room
  • Music on the terrace restaurant wasn’t great so the waiter tuned his phone to radio Hindi and left it next to our table
  • It was a bit chilly so they lit a fire
  • Sightseeing tomorrow.
  • Monday 27th – On the Move Again

    I’ve said before it’s all a bit of a blur, and it still is. But I think we’re getting used to it – loads of surprises and new experiences. And even Eileen, with all her planning and reading, is on overload.

    The good news was that she warmed to the hotel, eventually. What’s not to like?

    Actually didn’t like their credit card machine, which decided not to like our card. So had to run into town to get cash – and when the first 3 also didn’t like the cards was getting a bit worried. Relieved to find it’s the Indian IT at fault, not us. But as we’re heading into the wilds stocked up with more cash just in case.

    But if that’s the extent of our problems, I’m very very happy with that. And writing this on Tuesday, exactly 2 weeks after we arrived, and only a few days until we fly home on Saturday. So feels safe and not tempting providence to give a tummy report – very very good I’m delighted to say. Sticking to non-meat and scrupulous hygiene certainly help.

    Anyway, back to business. Here’s a route plan.

    Looks professional doesn’t it. Eagle-eyed will spot I missed Bharatpur between Agra and Jaipur but hope it gives some context – and demonstrates my slick IT skills at the same time.

    But today was all about Kumbhalgarh Fortress

    3600 feet above sea level and the walls are 36km – referred to as India’s Great Wall of China’s.

    But first found some friends and their water wheel

    Then to the main event – which Santosh described as a “massage drive”.

    And at last some people wanted a selfie with me. They were so awed with my clip-on flip-up sunglasses they wanted pictures. I always new I was a style icon – that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

    Few more

    No idea who the last guy is. He was singing his heart out and being filmed, so can probably be found on tik tok.

    And finally to Ranakpur to our £40 B&B.

    And the dining room

    Very noisy Indian party – Gujarat is a dry state, so apparently they had come here to celebrate Republic Day with booze. We moved rooms …..

    Sunday 26th – Photogenic Udaipur

    Mooching around today. First decent coffee in two weeks, with a nice view of the lake.

    Bit of shopping.

    Lot of tech to carry around – iPad, phone, phone charger, portable WiFi – which is all working fantastically well so can be connected all the time and call Santosh when we need him. And it’s Republic Day today so everyone has a flag.

    And the main event was a sunset dinner at the famous Ambrai with John and Sue. Although a public holiday means no booze.

    Not a bad view from dinner.